Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.